Work 2 1/2 cm (1”) of compost or soil enhancer into the soil. Water until the entire root zone is saturated. For new beds, add 2 1/2 to 5 cm (1” - 2”) of compost and rototill to at least a 12 cm (5”) depth. Most annuals and perennials do pretty well in compost-amended soils.
Aerate your lawn before topdressing. Then spread 1/3 to 1 1/4 cm (1/8” to 1/2”) of compost evenly over the area using a rake. Water the area thoroughly. Water helps the compost move through the thatch layer, to the soil surface and into aeration holes.
For lawns that are going to be seeded or sodded, apply about 2 1/2 to 5 cm (1” - 2”) of compost and rototill to a depth of 12 cm (5”). For seeded lawns, apply seed and then spread a thin layer of compost to cover seed. Compost helps increase grass seed germination by providing adequate seed-to-soil contact, moisture, and balanced nutrients.
Rototill up to 5 times the diameter of the rootball of the tree to be planted. Add about 30% compost by volume to the area and mix thoroughly with the native soil outside the hole. Place the tree into the hole and use the compost amended soil mixture as a backfill around the rootball. It is vital to ensure no air pockets around the roots as you backfill the hole. Remove excess soil and water thoroughly.
Apply about 2 1/2 cm (1”) of compost and rototill into the soil to a depth of 12 cm (5”). You may need to apply compost every year to poor soils until the proper nutrient level is established. Do not over-apply compost because many vegetables will not produce high yields if there is excess nitrogen in the ground.
For optimum mulch application results around annuals, perennials and other landscape plants, use a 5 cm (2”) layer of compost. Avoid over- or under-mulching because other problems can arise, such as smothering of root systems. Grade the mulch so water flows away from trunks, reducing chances for crown rot. Finer compost does not suppress weeds as well as coarse-textured composts do.
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